right guys i got a rover 400 1999 2l td intercooled
its not very good on fuel atm any common reasons on why this could be ?
also is there anyway to change the glowplugs without having to remove the dam fuel pump ? im kinda sick of having to turn it over a few times b4 it starts lol
also is there anyway i can get more power out of it without spending alot ? i.e turn up the boost manually or anything ?

Just change the first three glowplugs, make sure you get good ones as i just learned. I fitted Beru ones which is what were fitted when they were new. Youll have to take the coolant elbow off in front of glowplug no1 to get a ratchet on it. Later L series engines didnt even have a fourth glowplug.

Check your plugs are actually coming on, the relay can stick. Good way to test this is get in the car and leave the door open so the interior light is on. When you click the ignition to position 2 the plugs should come on and your interior light will dim. It will come bright after about 3 seconds after the glowplug coil light goes out. You should also hear the relay clicking the power off.

If your MPG is low check the braided leakoff pipes between each injector, they frey and leak diesel. This can also be a cause of poor starting on a morning. Just buy some injector pipe 5mm and cut it to size.

So is it an SDi? I think they have mechanical pumps, and you can up the fuelling. Blank off the EGR, gut the cat, and fit a boost controller will see a good increase. You can then move onto tuning boxes and remaps to see 150bhp+ and masses of torque.


If youve got any oil leaks at the front, chances are its the oil cooler pipes as they rust and leak oil all over your sump and everything else.

all i no is its a iE 2l td lol
i know it def has a mechanical pump though and i have ngk glow plugs for it cost me £9 each :O
there is def no oil leaks as ive had the sump guard and all off cause i dropped a nut down the back of the engine and had to remove it to get the nut back lol

I just binned my sump guard, more hassle than good. If its not an SDi, then i think thats an electric pump - which means you can fit injectors out of an SDi for about 30bhp, pricewise about £50 a set delivered.

Others will be along soon but you would have to work out which pump you have.

Upping the boost is cheap enough, cone filter £10 and gutting the cat is DIY. It wont affect emissions and will give you little increases for each mod.

Leakoffs are a common problem as far as i know.

£9 for plugs is about right but once theyre done, theyre done.

To do no1 you have to

unbolt the alternator bracket (3x 10mm bolts),
vacuum hose from the alternator to the brake servo removed (clips on the hoses and 8mm bolt on the rocker cover),
dipstick unbolted (10mm bolt),
coolant elbow removed (4x10mm bolts, you can get a long ratchet onto three of them, 10mm ring spanner on the one at the top right as you look at the engine),
youll also have to remove the coolant hose from the side of the coolant elbow,
disconnect the pump plug,
alternator earth plug
CTS plug.

I did all three in an hour last week.

well like i said its definately a belt driven mechanical pump its only a 1999 model they didnt really start using the electric ones till later on

i like the way you make it sound so simple lol

so how would the injectors make such a difference ?
i can tell u its 103bhp model if that helps at all

I thought that the SDi models only went to 98 though.. Whats the cars exact description on the V5?

If its an SDi/GSDi/SLDi then you already have the better injectors, and the easiest mods would be to up the boost on the actuator and by using a boost gauge to about 19psi, gutted cat, air filter, and a tuning box. You would see about 130-135bhp imo for about £100 (£70ish for the tuning box, £15 filter, £15 boost gauge).

If you want to go further, you can fit modded injectors by Wingspeed, fit a full exhaust, big FMIC and a remap. Moneywise theyre about £200 each, perhaps more.

i just want a bit more poke to it after always havin petrols and 1.9 tdi fabia vrs and astra sri cdti`s it seems real slow lol

log book says rover 420i e diesel turbo

Whoa slow down there.

All L series got a mechanically driven pump.

However there are 3 different types.

The one fitted to the 200/400 non intercooled ones is quite basic and mechanically controlled (hence gets called the mechanical pump).

The intercooled 2/4/600 got the VP37 which is a fly by wire electronic pump, (no throttle cable connection to the pump - its electronic).

The 25/45/zr/zs diesels got the VP30 pump which is again all electronic but slightly more advanced and a lot more fragile.

The non intercooled versions are 84bhp
The intercooled versions are both 103bhp (The VP30 pumps got more torque though I think).

First thing you should do is give it a good service!

Then if the fuel economy is down and it is a bit dodgy below 2,500 rpm I'd suspect the maf sensor.

For more power you should crank the boost up to 19psi and figure out what pump you have and get a suitable tuning box - if you have the early pump follow Dan's guide on hitting it with a hammer to make you go faster.

Good avdvice, just one thing - if it's a 400 then the maf won't affect anything other than the egr valve.

well thats what under the bonnet on this number is like
so how wud i go about removing the egr or upping the boost ?

any one know ?

Wheres the engine cover gone!

That is the Di engine with the VP37 pump

Info on what you want to do should be on my website.

thanks but whats all this bout tuning chips ?

two things really
where do i connect the boost pressure sensor to find out what its currently running and to monitor it as i adjust it ???


secondly
after looking closely at it like so

there doesnt seem to be alot of adjustment on this theres only a couple of turns left by the looks of things
also i guess i do wanna make it shorter not longer ??

I think you just plumb it into a tpiece on the existing boost sensor, which is on the bulkhead near the brake master cylinder on mine.

i can only see the one for the egr system i cant see anything else under there

shorten it

On mine its above the EGR system, on a bracket on the bulkhead, under the drivers wiper. In roughly the same place the ECU is on a kseries bubble.

Fit a boost gauge before adjusting the boost pressure

http://roverdiesel.co.uk/menuair/100-ho ... ssure.html

19psi on the stadard turbo is about as high as you want to go